Acne took over Paris last week for their first international menswear presentation, and I think it took everybody by surprise. They've turned everything on its head, with 2010 show baggy upperbody wear and tight legwear, but S/S 2011 is an exercise in juxtaposition and typically, androgyny. Their jackets are short and tight fitting, whilst they're are taking a leaf from Bowie's book with wide, flared legwear.
Acne have said they are attempting to create "the perfect disco, school boy look" by challenging classic proportions throughout their collection, "waists become higher and tshirts become longer". The materials just heighten this sense of sixties extravagance and "silhouettes are pushed across silks, jerseys, cotton, wool and microfibre pieces".
"I had a moment of clarity for this collection with my design team at a place called Tango in Paris. It was just a good night out actually, and that dance hall with all of its styled up, dueting couples and slow routines, reminded me of a school dance. For me it also has to do with personal history; in my teens I would travel to these summer dances in remote halls in the Swedish countryside – cause that’s what you do. These dances were super exotic parties for me in my youth; believe me – it’s more spiritual than doing drugs, the all night light kinda sends everyone into this crazy positive place. I have always found this very interesting – it is quite seldom that you find yourself dancing with strangers and I started to imagine this fun, young, imaginative boy going to a school disco. Sometimes I think fashion should just be that: a fun and happy moment and a memory. When I was thinking of my first international Menswear showing, Paris was the natural choice. And why Le Chateaubriand? For me it is about a fun night, great food and wine, sexy people and having fun either in a group or just watching. And why not turn a restaurant into a disco?” – Jonny Johansson
[Thanks to Selectism for the images]
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