Tuesday 10 November 2009

Design Classic #1: APC New Standard




Jonathan Glancey, architecture critic for the Guardian, last year began writing a series of short articles called 'classics of every day design'. Writing around fifty articles, including products such as the moleskine notepads, the illycafe jars and Robin Day's polyprop chair amongst other products which surround us but don't 'swank around in style magazines' and which we unforgivably take for granted. We intend on publishing a few design classics of our own; timeless pieces from architecture, product design, the great outdoors, architecture and beyond.


Our first product is the APC New Standard. As a brand, APC needs little introduction. Adopting a very Miesian 'Less is more' approach to their clothing which seems to have been lost in time, althought certainly still appreciated, geared towards essential wardrobe needs. Much like the New Standard, the creator - Tunisian born Jean Touitou's thoughts about the clothing industry are direct and to the point. Practically unchanged in two decades of production, the New Standard is a unisex jean made from raw selvage denim that can't help fitting everybody with unrivaled precision. They epitomise utilitarian design - there is nothing superfluous, no external branding (excusing the neatly attached APC pin and the top fly button which is engraved engraved 'APC, Paris pres de Luxembourg') but most importantly no gimmicky washes, paint splatters or uniform holes. Yes, these jeans require commitment, they represent an everyday narrative that is unique to every pair. A new pair will hold you hostage; they're hard, unwashed and stiff. It is widely recommended amongst jean connoiseurs to buy 2-3 sizes down and then wear the denim in for 6-12 months without a wash.


I've only been wearing my jeans for 3 months now and they're still unwashed. They've definitely loosened up and are beginning to show some beautiful fading in all the places I wanted. As an avid cyclist, the crotch has a saddle shape fade and the backpockets shadowing the shape of my wallet, not to mention the countless number of handrails I have slid down over the past 90 days.


I often feel that a sign of great design is a product, system or idea that transcends and outlives fashion and the New Standard has done it for the past twenty years. A great pair of jeans will get better with age, with every action you make, and every time you fall. We haven't seen anybody look good in a pair of flared cords recently but a classic pair of jeans never go out of style.

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